Daenerys Cosplay Pattern and Makeup Tutorial

UPDATE: I've updated this pattern to make it a better and more comprehensive guide!  If you were in the middle of this tutorial as I'm updating, just email me and I can send you the original one. : )

Hi there guys!  So this  ^  is my makeup attempt at Daenerys.  (Eyes were digitally changed violet because I didn't have time to order the circle lenses for this cosplay : | )   She is easily my favorite cosplay to date, because, well, how can you go wrong with the Mother of Dragons?!

Anywhos, I've been getting messages for advice on this cosplay, so I decided to just write one big post with my tips and suggestions.  Ahem, let the cosplay goodness begin!

B R E A K D O W N  of   M A K E U P : 

Her makeup is a very simple look, but what I've found is most important when cosplaying is highlighting and contouring.  It really makes a huge difference!  So I put together a simple tutorial on Youtube for anyone that may find it useful.  

Here's a list of the makeup I used in the above tutorial:

• That Gal by Benefit ( Primer / Highlight )
• Super BB by Skin79 ( BB Cream Coverage )
• Lucidty in Light by Estée Lauder ( Translucent Pressed Powder )
• Naked Palette by Urban Decay ( Eye Shadow / Contouring Powder )
• They're Real! by Benefit ( Mascara )
• NYX Lipliner Pencil in Nude Pink
• Bella Bamba by Benefit ( Brightening Blush )
• NYX Pump It Up ( Lip Plumper ) 

  

If you want to be true to the books, I'd recommend purchasing violet circle lenses.  My favorite for this cosplay are the G&G GBT Violet ones from Candylens.com.  I highly recommend this company to order lenses from!  They personally emailed me to make sure my lenses arrived and that I was happy with them.  AND they sent me a hand written 'Thank You' note for my purchase.  How many companies do that now-a-days?

These ones have a 14.0 mm diameter meaning they're about the size of your own iris and consequently will look very natural.  (Note: this brand is not designed for those with astigmatisms.  Please do some research if you're a first time circle lens wearer, because your eyes are very precious!  ^_^ ) 

B R E A K D O W N  of   C O S T U M E :

So here is my initial sketch of Daenerys' blue dress from season 3.  After careful inspection (pausing the DVR in a million spots) I decided that instead of princess seams her dress merely had front and back darts.  I also decided a side invisible zipper would be best this fit.  

  

Below is a rough pattern for the dress.  PLEASE, if you use this guideline, use it on a cheap piece of muslin or fabric first to draft your own pattern for your body type.  That way you can make adjustments as necessary without having to cut into your expensive costume fabric.  Also, this pattern does not contain seam allowances, so you will need to factor those in.  I recommend using a lining fabric for each piece, but if you're in a hurry you can save time by only using lining (or doubling the same fabric) for the front bodice pieces and the back for the keyhole.  

D R A F T I N G  Y O U R  P A T T E R N 

Okay, these are directions for creating your pattern.  This will be done on muslin or cheaper fabric. Essentially we'll be putting the pieces together, trying it on, mark it where it needs adjustments, adjust 'til happy, pull the pieces apart and VOILA!  You'll have your pattern!  Since this is just a pattern, no need to worry about hemming or anything like that.

You will need:

• muslin/cheap fabric
• sewing machine
• thread
• measuring tape
• scissors
• seam ripper 
• dress form (this makes things so much easier, but you can manage without one)
• pattern pieces 
• front
• right and left back panels
• right front bodice
• left front bodice
• side/back skirt x3

1. Iron your pattern fabric.  
2. Measure your body and figure out the measurements for pattern piece on my pattern guide above.  
3. Use your tape measure to draw out your pattern using measurements onto your muslin/cheap fabric.  Remember, this is just a pattern, so you can mark it up however you like! And don't forget to mark the letters, darts, and name of each piece. 
4. IMPORTANT: my pattern guide does not include seam allowances (the area between the edge of fabric and the stitching line), so you will need to add this.  I would add at least 5 inches to give you plenty of fabric to work with and to put in the dart.  (It's a lot easier to cut away excess fabric than it is to repair something with too little fabric) Draw this line in a different color to distinguish the two lines.  It should look something like the red and black lined drawing.  
5. Cut your pieces at the red line!
6. If you have a dress form, rejoice!  This step will be a lot easier.  Set your dress form to your measurements and begin pinning the pieces together on your form as I outline below.  If you don't have one, you're gonna have to do more guess and check.  Pin your pieces together as I have outlined below before sewing.   
7. Sew your darts!  Here's a good tutorial if you're not sure what these are: here!  We're going to be doing Double Point Darts.  

1. Front Darts:  Top points at f and g.  Mid point (1") at waist line.  It should look something like this >
2. Back Darts: Do the same as the front darts with the widest part of the dart at the waist line.  Measure the darts so that they are the same lengths as your front ones.  

W H A T  P I E C E S  S E W  T O  W H A T

This key uses my pattern measurement guide above.  If this gets confusing, refer to my diagram of her dress to make sense of it.  Make sure you use a basting stitch for your pattern (A loose stitch that you can easily pull out if you make mistakes).  Remember, these are directions for designing the pattern, not the actual costume.

F =  Front
FB = Front Bodice
B = Back
1SS = 1st Side Skirt
2SS = 2nd Side Skirt

Example: F a-b will indicate the front piece of fabric from point a to point b.

10.  After everything has been sewed, try it on in a mirror.  Mark/pin where you need to make adjustments, and then adjust it.  You may also need to deepen your darts for a better fit.

11.  Once your costume fits you well, take a new colored marker and mark the seams.  Wherever there's stitches, mark it!

12.  Cut where you've marked excluding the darts.  You should have 8 pattern pieces total.

S E W I N G  T H E  F I N A L  C O S T U M E

Alright, now that we have our pattern ready, we can begin work on our actual costume (Finally!)

You will need:

• Costume fabric 
• fabric lining (if you want a better quality costume)
• sewing machine
• scissors
• thread
• Bias tape or piping (if you're not lining your costume)

1. Iron your costume fabric and lining.  
2. Pin your pattern pieces to your fabric/lining.  Mark your pattern.  (IMPORTANT: your pattern does not include the seam allowance, so that will need to be added!) 
3. Pin and sew your darts as you did above for the pattern.  (Make sure to sew the same darts in your lining as well)
4. If you're using lining, pin the matching lining pieces to the costume fabric.  Make sure you're pinning the "bad" sides facing together.  Begin sewing your lining pieces to your fabric pieces where the green is highlighted below.  Then turn the pieces right side out and iron your creases.   
5. Begin sewing pieces together!  

If you're not using lining, you can use bias tape to give a neat hem to your keyhole.  Here is a good tutorial for that from an amazing lady at Sugar Tart Crafts: Keyhole Dress Tutorial

If you're not familiar with adding an invisible zipper, here's a really helpful tutorial at Coletterie: Invisible Zipper Tutorial

E M B E L L I S H M E N T S

The bodice was the trickiest part.  I ended up sewing in a bra and building the bodice around it just so it would fit perfectly without unsightly puckering.  However, I soon realized this would not have been necessary if I placed the bodice ends lower on my hip.     

For the detail, I painted fishnet stockings a blue/silver color and used fabric glue to secure them to the shoulders.  I then used arrowhead smocking to create the triangular "dragon scales".  This website will give you great insight on how to achieve this. 

B R E A K D O W N  of  J E W E L R Y 

I made Daenerys' dragon claw necklace out of polymer clay then painted it with acrylic paints and varnish.  (insert shameless plug: I have this and more available in my Etsy shop!  Click the link to your right!)  You can buy all of these materials at your local craft shop as well.

 Here is my version of her single dragon claw necklace that comes in a cute little rustic pouch.  ( I also have the golden double claw version for sale.)

Dany's slave collar is also available in my Etsy shop in case you're doing her outfits from later in the season.  This collar also goes with her long draped white slave dress she wears.

Check out my other blog post to see other Dany jewelry I've created (her ring and bracelet!).  Check these out here: Daenerys Swag

Anywhos, I hope this post can help some of you along your way to awesome GoT cosplays.  I would loooove to see how your cosplays come out, so shoot me some pics when you're finished.  ^_^  If you guys have any questions, email me at n.jellyfishsoup@gmail.com!  Good luck and remember, fire cannot kill the dragon!